A Guide to Halifax: Nova Scotia’s Coastal Gem

Stock photo of the “Welcome to Nova Scotia Sign” by pabradyphoto from Getty Images/Canva.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Halifax is a city shaped by the sea, where history, culture, and ocean breezes converge along the rugged Atlantic coast. From the moment you arrive, there’s an undeniable energy. Fishing boats bob in the harbour, street musicians play along the lively boardwalk, and the scent of fresh seafood fills the salty air. Some places linger in your memory long after you’ve left, and Halifax is one of them. Maybe it’s the warmth of a waterfront pub, the thrill of standing atop the historic citadel, or the simple joy of tucking into a perfectly buttered lobster roll. Whatever draws you in, Nova Scotia’s coastal gem welcomes you with a blend of maritime heritage and modern vibrancy that’s impossible to resist.

I visited Halifax in September 2023 with my son as part of a broader “Lobster Road Trip” through Maine and the Maritime provinces. We used the city as a base—resting there after our drive from Bar Harbor. We launched our excursions to Digby and Yarmouth from Halifax, where we also rested before driving the northern stretch toward Cape Breton. Though I’d been to Halifax before, this visit reminded me just how much this city offers—both as a destination in its own right and a gateway to the scenic beauty of Nova Scotia.

In this post, I’ll walk you through the best of Halifax: its historic waterfront, fascinating museums, vibrant culinary scene, and unexpected adventures—like diving with great white sharks.

Where is Halifax? Nova Scotia’s Coastal Capital

Tucked along Canada’s Atlantic shoreline, Halifax is the capital of Nova Scotia, a province whose name quite literally means “New Scotland.” With its deep-rooted connections to Scottish heritage, Acadian culture, and the sea itself, Nova Scotia is one of Canada’s most distinct and storied regions. Halifax lies on the southeastern edge of the province, perched on one of the world’s largest natural harbours. From here, it’s an easy drive to explore the province’s charming towns, like Lunenburg and Peggy’s Cove, and only a few hours to reach neighbouring Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, or even the U.S. state of Maine.

Digitally-illustrated map of Nova Scotia and Halifax, using graphic elements, textures, text, and stock images from Canva.

Strategic Location

Halifax is more than just a pretty coastal city. The city has long played a vital role in Canada’s maritime identity. Its strategic position on the Atlantic made it a key naval and trading port for centuries. It served as a hub for immigration in the 19th and early 20th centuries, with Pier 21 once acting as Canada’s equivalent to Ellis Island. Halifax was also an essential naval base during both World Wars. Its harbour has seen both triumph and tragedy—from the Halifax Explosion in 1917 to its role in the recovery efforts after the sinking of the Titanic.

Why Visit?

So why visit Halifax? The city is an irresistible blend of past and present. Walk its historic streets, and you’ll find 18th-century fortresses, colourful Victorian houses, and museums full of seafaring lore. Yet just as easily, you’ll stumble upon craft breweries, buzzing farmers’ markets, and vibrant public art. Then, there is the breathtaking coastal scenery and a food scene brimming with fresh Atlantic seafood. These reasons make a compelling case for Halifax being one of Canada’s most memorable coastal cities.

Halifax History and Culture: From Citadels to Shipwrecks

Halifax may be a modern, bustling port city, but its cobbled streets and historic sites tell stories of centuries past. The cultural fabric of Halifax—and Nova Scotia more broadly—is rich with layers of heritage that stretch back to its earliest European settlers and maritime traditions.

Scottish, British, and Irish Influences

Nova Scotia’s name translates to “New Scotland,” and that’s no accident. The province was originally named by Sir William Alexander, a Scottish nobleman, in the early 17th century. Though the French and British fought over the region for decades, it was ultimately the British who established Halifax in 1749 as a strategic military outpost. The city soon became a magnet for settlers from England, Ireland, and Scotland. These immigrants brought with them customs, music, and architectural styles that still shape the city’s character. Walk through Halifax today, and you’ll find echoes of this ancestry in its churches, street names, and even local festivals.

Stock vintage photo of the Great Explosion in Halifax.

The Halifax Explosion (1917)

On the morning of December 6, 1917, Halifax was forever changed. A collision between two ships—one of which was carrying explosives—resulted in the largest human-made explosion in history before the atomic bomb. The blast levelled much of the city’s north end, killed nearly 2,000 people, and injured thousands more. Amid the devastation, stories of heroism and community resilience emerged. The event shaped Halifax’s identity as a city that rebuilds and remembers. Halifax still commemorates the explosion annually, and sites like the Halifax Explosion Memorial Bell Tower honour the lives lost.

Stock vintage photo of the sinking of the Titanic.

The Titanic Connection

When the RMS Titanic sank in 1912, Halifax played a critical role in the recovery operation. Cable ships were dispatched from the port to retrieve victims from the icy Atlantic. Many of those who perished now rest in Halifax cemeteries. Fairview Lawn Cemetery contains rows of simple black granite headstones that quietly tell the story of a global tragedy. Artifacts recovered from the Titanic can be viewed at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, making Halifax a must-visit destination for Titanic enthusiasts and history buffs alike.

Stock photo of a stamp depicting the Bluenose Schooner. “Schooner Bluenose” by peterspiro from Getty Images/Canva.

The Bluenose Legacy

While Halifax is a proud maritime city, it shares its nautical fame with nearby Lunenburg, home of the legendary racing schooner, the Bluenose. An enduring symbol of Nova Scotia’s seafaring excellence, the Bluenose is immortalized on the Canadian dime and celebrated as a triumph of shipbuilding and sailing prowess. Though the original vessel is gone, its replica still sails and represents the spirit of the province.

Acadian Heritage

Before British colonization, the region was home to the Acadians—French settlers who developed a thriving agricultural and fishing culture. Many Acadians were displaced during the 18th century in a painful chapter known as the Great Expulsion. Yet Acadian heritage persists in Nova Scotia, especially in its cuisine, language, and traditions, serving as a reminder of the region’s multicultural roots.

Top Halifax Attractions and Must-See Places

From hilltop forts and historic breweries to oceanfront boardwalks and iconic lighthouses, Halifax offers a compelling mix of history, culture, and coastal beauty. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning to experience it all over again, these are some of the best things to see and do in Nova Scotia’s coastal gem.

Historic & Cultural Attractions

Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Stock photo of the “Halifax Citadel Hill National Park” by shaunl from Getty Images Signature/Canva.

Perched on a hill overlooking the city, the star-shaped Halifax Citadel is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. The fort, built in the 19th century, offers sweeping views of Halifax Harbour and is brought to life by costumed interpreters, bagpipe performances, and reenactments of 19th-century military drills. Exploring its stone ramparts and delving into Halifax’s military history, visitors will discover that the Citadel offers a compelling glimpse into the city’s colonial heritage.

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

Located right on the waterfront, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is a must for maritime history enthusiasts. It houses an impressive collection of artifacts, including exhibits on shipwrecks, naval battles, and seafaring culture. The Titanic exhibit is a particular highlight, with poignant personal stories and recovered items from the ill-fated ship. You’ll also find information on the Halifax Explosion, making the museum an essential stop for understanding the city’s complex relationship with the sea.

Alexander Keith’s Brewery

Founded in 1820, Alexander Keith’s is one of the oldest working breweries in North America. A guided tour here is more than just a tasting. It’s an immersive step back in time. Costumed actors lead you through the historic building, sharing stories of Mr. Keith, 19th-century brewing methods, and Halifax’s love of beer. The tour ends with samples of their signature brews in a traditional pub-style tasting room.

Scenic Outdoor Highlights

Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk

Photo of Halifax’s Waterfront Boardwalk by Anton Vander Schaaf.

Stretching more than 3 kilometres along the harbour, the Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk is a lively and picturesque promenade lined with food vendors, artisan shops, public art, and historic vessels. Grab a Beavertail, watch the boats drift by, or hop aboard a harbour cruise. It’s the perfect place for a relaxed stroll, especially around sunset when the sky glows over the water.

Point Pleasant Park

For a dose of nature close to the city, Point Pleasant Park offers forested walking trails, hidden beaches, and panoramic views of the Atlantic. Scattered among the trees are ruins of military fortifications dating back to the 18th century. Locals come here to jog, picnic, and escape into nature without ever leaving town. It’s a peaceful retreat that still bears traces of Halifax’s strategic past.

Peggy’s Cove

Just a short drive from Halifax, Peggy’s Cove is one of the most photographed spots in Canada. Its iconic red-and-white lighthouse stands on dramatic granite outcrops that meet the crashing waves of the Atlantic. While the tiny fishing village can get busy in peak season, the scenery remains breathtaking year-round. Be sure to tread carefully on the rocks and take in the salty air, crashing surf, and postcard-worthy views.

Local Markets & Culture

Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market

This market is one of North America’s oldest continuously operating farmers’ markets. It is located near the cruise port and features stalls packed with local produce, cheeses, handmade crafts, and fresh seafood. Whether you’re after a quick bite or unique souvenirs, the Seaport Market is a great way to sample the region’s flavours and creativity.

Public Gardens & Historic Properties

Stock image of the Historic Properties District in Halifax. “Historic Warehouses Along the Waterfront” by pabradyphoto from Getty Images/Canva.

The Halifax Public Gardens, dating back to the Victorian era, are an oasis of calm in the city centre. Winding paths, ornate fountains, manicured flowerbeds, and elegant wrought-iron gates make it a favourite spot for a leisurely afternoon. Nearby, the Historic Properties district preserves 19th-century waterfront warehouses, now repurposed as boutique shops, pubs, and eateries. These areas beautifully showcase Halifax’s architectural charm and its commitment to preserving history with a modern twist.

Unique Halifax Activities: Shark Diving, Boat Tours & More

Halifax isn’t just about history and harbourfront strolls. It’s also a launchpad for some of Atlantic Canada’s most unforgettable outdoor adventures. From thrilling marine encounters to tidal river rides, the region offers unique ways to experience the natural power and beauty of Nova Scotia’s coast.

Shark Diving with Atlantic Shark Expeditions

For the truly adventurous, shark diving off the coast of Nova Scotia offers a front-row seat to one of the ocean’s most formidable creatures: the Great White. Atlantic Shark Expeditions, based in Halifax, is committed to shark research and conservation initiatives. They provide boat viewing or cage diving experiences that bring you up close with these apex predators in their natural habitat. With shifting ocean temperatures due to climate change, juvenile Great Whites have increasingly ventured into Canadian waters—offering a rare, exhilarating opportunity for thrill-seekers and marine enthusiasts alike.

Harbour Boat Tours & Whale Watching

Stock photo of a whale. “Humpback Whale Jumping” by ArtTower from Pixabay/Canva.

A boat tour is one of the best ways to experience Halifax from a different perspective. Cruise along the harbour with Halifax Harbour Tours, hop aboard the quirky Harbour Hopper amphibious vehicle, or enjoy a sunset sail with City Harbour Cruises. Beyond the harbour, Nova Scotia’s surrounding waters are home to a range of whale species—minke, humpback, and even the elusive North Atlantic right whale. Tour companies such as A&M Sea Charters, Four Winds Sea Charters, and Lunenburg Whale Watching (in nearby Lunenburg) offer exceptional whale-watching excursions that combine maritime scenery with the thrill of spotting marine life.

Tidal Bore Rafting on the Bay of Fundy

Just a couple of hours from Halifax, the Bay of Fundy is home to the world’s highest tides—and one of its most unique experiences: tidal bore rafting. As the massive tides rush into rivers like the Shubenacadie, they create a dramatic surge known as a tidal bore. With outfitters such as Fundy Tidal Bore Adventures, Shubie River Wranglers, and the Indigenous-owned Tidal Bore Rafting Resort, you can ride the waves aboard a motorized raft, bouncing through churning rapids created entirely by the moon’s gravitational pull. It’s wet, wild, and unlike anything else in North America.

Halifax Food Guide: Seafood, Donairs & Local Delights

Halifax’s food scene reflects its coastal geography, immigrant influences, and deep maritime roots. The city offers something for every palate, from traditional East Coast seafood to global flavours and iconic local street food. Halifax’s cuisine blends Acadian, British, Irish, Scottish, and more recent international culinary traditions. It is both hearty and evolving, rooted in local ingredients and shaped by the sea.

Halifax Donair

No food guide to Halifax is complete without mentioning the city’s beloved donair. Restaurants developed this local adaptation of the Turkish döner kebab in the 1970s, and it has since become a staple in Nova Scotia. A donair consists of spiced ground beef, sweet garlicky sauce, and toppings like tomatoes and onions wrapped in a warm pita. It’s the ultimate late-night bite. I tried mine at King of Donair, the original purveyor of this regional classic—and it didn’t disappoint.

Lobster & Seafood

Digitally enhanced photo of a lobster roll from The Bicycle Thief in Halifax, using graphic elements, textures, text, and a photo by Anton Vander Schaaf.

Being right on the Atlantic, Halifax is a paradise for seafood lovers. Lobster rolls are a must-try, whether served simply with butter or elevated with herbs and citrus. Scallops from Digby, along with mussels, oysters, and haddock, also feature prominently on many local menus. The Bicycle Thief, a trendy harbourside restaurant, served up one of the better lobster rolls I tried on my Lobster Road Trip. Another reliable stop is Dave’s Lobster Shack on the Waterfront Boardwalk.

Beavertails

For a sweet treat along the Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk, grab a Beavertail—a flat, deep-fried pastry topped with cinnamon sugar, chocolate, or fruit. It’s the perfect way to satisfy your sweet tooth while enjoying views of the harbour.

Unexpected Finds

Digitally enhanced photo of Mapo Tofu from Sheng’s Chinese Restaurant in Halifax, using graphic elements, textures, text, and a photo by Anton Vander Schaaf.

One of my most surprising meals was at Sheng’s Chinese Restaurant, where I found incredibly authentic Mapo tofu. Created by a chef originally from Hong Kong, the dish was bold, spicy, and packed with numbing Sichuan peppercorns. It was a rare find in this part of Canada and a testament to Halifax’s growing culinary diversity.

Farm-Fresh Produce

Digitally enhanced photo of Salmon Eggs Benedict from the Cheeky Neighbour Diner in Halifax, using graphic elements, textures, text, and a photo by Anton Vander Schaaf.

Nova Scotia is also known for its farm-fresh produce, especially blueberries and fruit from the Annapolis Valley. Many restaurants incorporate seasonal ingredients, and local farmers’ markets burst with colour in the warmer months. If you’re looking for brunch, try the Cheeky Neighbour Diner on Quinpool Road. They offer a mix of modern international with traditional diner comfort food using local ingredients.

Drinks to Try

Digitally enhanced photo of Keith’s beer, using graphic elements, textures, text, and a photo by Anton Vander Schaaf.

On the beverage side, Halifax is home to Alexander Keith’s Brewery—one of the oldest in North America—and Moosehead, which started in nearby Dartmouth. But the real excitement is in the craft beer scene. Breweries like Good Robot Brewing, New Scotland Brewing Company, Burnside Brewing Company, Nine Locks Brewing, and Shipwright Brewing are just a few of the many places crafting small-batch ales and lagers that celebrate Nova Scotia’s bold spirit.

Travel Tips for Halifax: When to Visit, How to Get Around

Planning your trip to Halifax is key to making the most of this scenic and culturally rich coastal city. Halifax offers seafood feasts, sweeping coastal views, and stories etched into cobblestone streets—and with a bit of planning, your visit can be all the more rewarding.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to visit Halifax is from late spring to early fall. The weather is mild and pleasant from June to September, making it perfect for exploring the waterfront, visiting historic sites, and enjoying outdoor dining. July and August are peak tourist season, with lively festivals and crowded patios. But late summer and early autumn also bring occasional humidity and the tail end of hurricane season. In fact, my son and I had to cut our trip to Prince Edward Island short in 2023 due to the remnants of Hurricane Lee, which threatened to shut down the Confederation Bridge.

Autumn is quieter but spectacular, with crisp air and colourful foliage along the coast. For wildlife enthusiasts, the best months for whale watching are typically June to October, while shark diving is possible in summer and early fall—though conditions may vary by year.

Getting There

Halifax is well connected by air through Halifax Stanfield International Airport (YHZ), with direct flights from major Canadian and U.S. cities. For those road-tripping through the Maritimes, Halifax is easily accessible by car or long-distance bus. Ferry routes also link Nova Scotia to other provinces—like the CAT ferry from Bar Harbor, Maine to Yarmouth, or crossings from PEI and Newfoundland. [https://www.ferries.ca/thecat]

Stock photo of the ferry in Halifax harbour. “Ferry on Water” by Braeson Holland from Pexels/Canva.

Getting Around

Halifax’s city centre is compact and walkable, making it easy to explore on foot. Public buses run regularly, and the city’s harbour ferries offer a scenic and affordable way to cross the water. Rideshares and taxis are also available, and car rentals are handy for venturing farther afield to places like Peggy’s Cove or Lunenburg.

Cultural Etiquette

Haligonians are famously friendly. A smile and a polite “hello” go a long way. Standard Canadian tipping applies. 15–20% in restaurants is customary, and service staff will appreciate the gesture. Dining is casual but courteous, and you’ll likely find the pace a little slower—part of the laid-back East Coast charm that makes Halifax so inviting.

Stock photo of the coastal view in Peggy’s Cove. “Peggy’s Cove” by tweetyclaw from Getty Images Signature/Canva.

Conclusion

Halifax is more than just a pretty port town. It’s a dynamic blend of seafaring history, natural beauty, and culinary creativity. From its hilltop citadel to its salt-kissed boardwalk, the city offers travellers a chance to connect with both the past and the present in a setting that’s as welcoming as it is picturesque.

For me, Halifax far exceeded expectations. I knew I’d enjoy the seafood—especially the lobster rolls and scallops—but I was struck by how deeply maritime history is woven into the city’s identity. Exploring the Maritime Museum, walking the waterfront, and seeing a Beavertail vendor next to a shipyard made the experience feel rooted and real.

What About You?

Have you been to Halifax, or is it on your travel list?
What’s your favourite maritime destination—or the one you most want to visit?
Would you dive with sharks, hunt down the best lobster roll, or explore a historic fort?

Drop your thoughts in the comments below—and don’t forget to check out other posts on the Only Anton travel blog for more offbeat city guides and coastal escapes.